Fair Trade and The True Cost of Food


My father grew up in Iowa during the depression. Times were dire, and he witnessed much hardship and suffering. Getting enough to eat was never an issue for his family but seeing others go hungry left its psychological mark. After returning from WWII, he witnessed the Industrial Agricultural Complex taking hold in earnest, and the availability of cheap food became a patriotic goal. Generations were raised thinking cheap food was a bonus. It is proving difficult to shake that philosophy out of our food values.

One of the fundamental flaws in our current food system is the low value we place on food. Outside of the (growing) circle of food advocates, a vast majority of people still think cheap food is appealing. The less you pay for a pound of tomatoes or bunch of bananas seems like a personal victory won at the register. The dollar meal, the soda and snack all seem like ways to cheat the system.

In fact, the real cost of most food is often not incorporated into the price and is almost always paid at a later date or by people out of sight. Purchasing Fair Trade products provides an opportunity to pay the fair price for those who grow, harvest, wash and pack the food that we eat.

The first time I went to Ecuador and Peru with Fair Trade USA was nearly 11 years ago. My eyes were opened to the poverty inherent in the banana growing systems throughout the country. Land reform in the 1970’s broke up the large plantations and gave every family a small plot of land. Families now had their own private few hectares to produce bananas. But they lacked infrastructure, coordination and access to markets outside their immediate area where bananas sell for pennies to the pound.

My privileged US eyes widened at the rows of ramshackle homes that lacked electricity, plumbing and running water. Tattered children worked in the fields because schools were just too far away and, quite frankly, their labor was needed to make ends meet.

Health care was available in theory, but the lack of local facilities in rural areas was the reality. In order to receive medical treatment, they jostled on a 4-hour bus ride into the city. Losing a full day of work only increasing their financial plight.

Local food was found in a one-room store filled with expensive packaged goods, sugary snacks with meager provisions of fresh fruits or vegetables. Everyone was wise to drink bottled water, yet it cost more than the sugary sodas and Inca colas.

The larger producers who could trade on the international market often suffered from the whims of buyers and multinational corporations setting prices from far-flung cities. Commodity trading practices sent prices plunging well below production costs. International business capabilities did not necessarily guarantee prosperity.

I traveled to rural Peru and Ecuador on behalf of Albert’s Organics to create close relationships with our banana producers. I helped facilitate the creation of cooperative associations that brought producers together so that they could operate as one business unit. They could all share resources, develop quality control and food safety practices and achieve organic certifications. Thus equipped, they could together enter the international trade market, thereby increasing their income and standard of living.

Becoming Fair Trade Certified was one of THE MOST important benefits that assured a higher standard of living for those producers. It guaranteed a base price for each item. This minimum price assures that the whims of the marketplace do not go below the real cost of producing the crop.

In addition to the guaranteed fair market price, a small fee or Fair Trade Premium is collected and scrupulously recorded and tracked. These dollars and cents end up in a fund that the grower cooperatives control and use for social improvements in their own community. The association elects a president, treasurer and secretary, and votes on how the funds are allocated each year. It is democratic and serves the immediate needs of the community.

Every year I returned, I witnessed pride and accomplishment for the most modest of improvements brought about by Fair Trade certification. One cooperative chose to equip every home that had a processing station with running water. This meant the workers could wash their hands, follow good agricultural practices and gain international food safety status. The homeowners now had running water to cook, clean and improve their personal hygiene. Hello toothbrushes and flushing toilets!

The next cooperative decided to invest in a fund that would pay the producers if their children attended school. They could use the funds to offset the lost labor as well as provide transportation and clothing. Kids were now learning to read, write and could perhaps grow up to be the next generation of leaders.

A little farther down the road, another group set up a small store in their village and stocked it with wholesome, nutritious food that sold for fair, modest prices. The mercado was operated by an army of grandmothers who no longer worked the fields happily enjoying an easy, modest income. After the initial funding, the market immediately became self-sufficient and blossomed with a cornucopia of healthy staples. This same group subsidized a small medical office and paid for traveling dentists, doctors and social workers to offer treatment and services in the area. The entire community was healthier and happier as a result!

Buying Fair Trade products takes the exploitation out of products, allowing workers in developing countries to achieve basic human conditions. It is a pure market-based approach that gives the farmer fair prices and safe conditions while benefiting the entire community.

There are several reliable and transparent Fair Trade brands that certify your purchase is making a difference: Fair Trade USA, Fair Trade America, and Fair Trade International. All three work diligently to assure those who produce your food have basic social rights.

Please honor the true costs of food by always choosing Fair Trade when it is available. The few extra pennies you pay mean so much more to those who produce our food.

If we shift the way we value food and begin to incorporate the true costs, we can change the entire food and agricultural paradigm. One banana at a time.

The Bioponic Debate – Are There Bigger Fish to Fry?

I can smell it; spring is just around the corner. While some areas of the country are still under winter’s frigid grip, elongated English cucumbers are flourishing in shade houses near the Mexican border. Tantalizing heirloom tomatoes, curvaceous eggplant and thick zucchini are growing in various mediums of soil and soil-less technologies. They fill our winter plate. Innovative farmers have figured out how to maintain vigorous populations of microbes using natural fertilizers to cultivate food in containers and other soil-less conditions (sweepingly named Bioponics). For the time being, they can market their produce as certified organic if they follow the organic regulations. All this could change in 2017.

While the “to soil or not to soil” debate rages on, does the organic community not have bigger fish to fry? Continue reading

New Zealand Holiday: A Sovereign Food Journey

abaconda-new-zealand-fernI travel to NZ on holiday, the first time in my career when I haven’t come to this island nation to work. Many times I have traversed the Pacific to represent organic apple growers in Hawkes Bay, the planetary inverse of the Monterey Bay. This time I come to take in hot springs, catch trout in monumental Lake Taupo, and tramp through thousand-year-old kauri forests. I come to eat and relax which affords me time to reflect on this place where people treat agriculture and food in a fair and sovereign manner. Continue reading